Value vs. Terroir
When you buy a wine, are you interested more in the characteristics imparted to that wine by the influences of its origin? Are you more inclined to buy based on value? Or, do you merely acquiesce to the ratings of wine reviewers who may or may not have any real experience at rating wines?
It is difficult, perhaps, to make the case for any one of these scenarios absolutely, since one’s answer would often depend on one’s experience tasting and reading about wine.
I got a sense of this issue having read today’s post from Fermentations, in which Tom Wark profiles an article from long-time columnist and wine judge Dan Berger. Berger raises the issue of terroir in his article, “Why Terroir is Essential to Wine Evaluation“:Â
The wine rating numbers game has blinded reviewers and consumers who don’t consider the unique influences of taste which are contributed by where the grapes were grown. It is time to take terroir into consideration.
While many of us wine drinkers appreciate where a wine comes from, we also know that a wine is influenced by the palate of its winemaker as well as its perception by the public. Part of that public perception is determined by those who would influence them. What Berger fails to mention is that while there are wine reviewers who discuss terroir as a fundamental element, there are also wine reviewers who believe value is the main impetus behind most people’s wine-purchasing rationale. While I don’t think there is a stern juxtaposition between the valuationists and the terroirists, I do think that terroir, while important, is only one influence on the wine-buying public.
For if terroir were the sole factor behind wine appreciation and purchase, then the wine journalists of the world have a lot of educating to do - to themselves as well as the public.
I maintain that only those wine consumers who would go beyond the casual exploration of wine would find value solely in terroir; that the pocketbook rules for most wine buyers. I don’t think I’m alone in that assessment.
January 2nd, 2007 15:15
Value vs. Terroir…
When you buy a wine, are you interested more in the characteristics imparted to that wine by the influences of its origin? Are you more inclined to buy based on value? Or, do you merely acquiesce to the ratings of wine reviewers who may or may not have…
January 2nd, 2007 17:56
I personally go with what I like. Sometimes my tastes are different than a reviewer’s, and there is no shame in that. Much like Douglas Adams summed up trying to see something from his perspective (which you CAN’T because you aren’t really him), wine is such a personal thing that you have to experience it yourself. I find reviews as a good place to start, but don’t be limited by them, and don’t take them to be the ONE Answer. Let your own tongue decide.
January 2nd, 2007 18:46
Larian, while I’m under the impression that Mr. Berger takes issue with reviewers and their level of “hedonism vs. knowledge”, my point is that you can’t blame the reviewers when they cater to a greater population that places more value on “great wine for the price” than the soil from which the wine comes.
Meanwhile, thank you for voting for my blog!
January 3rd, 2007 14:00
Russ, I would argue that the “average” consumer is driven first by flavor, and neither terroir nor price. Budget may come in a close second, but most consumers are looking for something that simply tastes all right with their dinner.
I think this is why we see so many reviewers erring on the side of “hedonistic” reviewing (a term I find loaded at best, no pun intended). These folks are appealing to an audience that overall doesn’t care much about terroir, or even vintage, by speaking in terms—flavor and feel terms, like “intense” and “fruity” and “heavy,” because those terms are somewhat universal. The rub, of course, is that each person’s experience of “intense” or “fruity” is different, so those terms end up being not quite so universal as we’d like to think.
Which is why there will always be room for reviewers who approach their wine with terroir (or any other feature) in mind. Because inevitably, there will be those of us who do need more descriptors that might enhance (not replace) more standardized language.
Best,
JJ
January 3rd, 2007 14:13
Jessie, thank you for your thoughts; it’s good to hear from you again.
I can’t disagree with you! However, I don’t consider price to be primary to my argument. Instead, today’s wine consumer is driven by perceived value, of which price is only one factor.
Tom Wark sure did start a fine discussion, though, didn’t he? I recommend checking out the comments Tom has received on this topic since I published this post yesterday. I’m hoping Dan Berger will weigh in.