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Archive for January, 2007

The “Five S’s” of wine tasting

Monday, January 15th, 2007

‘Fess up, folks: you watch NBC’s In Wine Country with Mary Babbitt on Sunday nights, don’t you?

OK, much like many of you, I find my weekend time to be precious; therefore I don’t always watch the show. And, being that the show only airs in the San Francisco Bay Area, San Diego, Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, Dallas, Washington DC, Miami, Philadelphia, and Hartford, CT, chances are that you’ve never even heard of the show. But if you had, you may have been aware that In Wine Country has been honored with a James Beard Award for Best Local Food Show.*

One of the regular segments of the show is an audience teaser, often a question that serves to further viewers’ wine knowledge. In last night’s show, Mary mixed it up a little from the typical multiple-choice format, this time asking, “Do you know what the Five S’s of Wine Tasting are?

As the show broke to commercial, I mentally jotted down “Swirl, Sniff, Sip, Savor, and Swallow.”

And I was wrong! Well, at least partially wrong, in that I had four of them correct. According to Ms. Babbitt and the In Wine Country folks, the Five S’s are “See, Swirl, Smell, Sip, and Savor.”

She’s right, of course. One must also see the wine to get a sense of it’s clarity, liveliness of color, even its potential age. Swallowing, on the other hand, is not included in the Five S’s for a very good reason: to swallow every wine one tastes cannot necessarily be regarded as good policy. Indeed, a sixth “S” might be “spit” - a practice which I’ve always maintained is a perfectly acceptable thing to do when tasting wines, no matter how many or how few.

While the spit bucket always remains empty at the mid-week tastings I host, I admit that tasting only six bottles’ worth between six people, in addition to the Joy Factor, can often preclude spitting. But being on a weeknight, it’s also rare that any one bottle at my tastings goes empty; most folks want a clear head for the following day’s work efforts. So though we swallow, we just don’t swallow very much. (I expect to regret this statement, however.)

Nevertheless, if you’re going to drive a car and/or going to attend a massive tasting such as the ZAP Festival in San Francisco later this month like I’ll be doing, then spitting the wine after noting each of the other five S’s is the proper thing to do. That, and eating a lot of food - something there’s always plenty of at the popular ZAP tastings.

The Organization of Zinfandel Advocates and Producers

Being that I’ll be spitting lots of Zinfandel on the 27th, being that others will too, and in the absence of protective plastic sheeting a la Gallagher’s Sledge-O-Matic, I’ll be wearing my best purple shirt. And I’ll swallow after I arrive safely home.

~winehiker

*Please see It feels like Spring for this Winehiker for a follow-up to this post.

Salacious Sunday links!

Sunday, January 14th, 2007

Solitary Saturday link

Saturday, January 13th, 2007

The Winehiker featured on CrushNet

Friday, January 12th, 2007

2006 could be CrushPad's best year yet. 

The unique thing about San Francisco’s CrushPad is that you can make your own wine - even adopt a barrel - without a degree in oenology. You can involve yourself just as much or as little as you’re comfortable being, and you can team up with others, whether you ever meet them or not, to crush, blend, and bottle your wine. I was intrigued enough to recently throw in with a team organized by wine blogger Beau Jarvis on a Grenache-Syrah-Petite Sirah blend from grapes sourced at Eaglepoint Ranch in Mendocino County. Cost? About 216 bucks.

The “style goal” for the team is “California Rhone Style wine, with balanced fruit, medium bodied with lush upfront fruit, integrated oak aromas and flavor leading to a long finish.” With my particular native-California palate profile, this blend ought to be right up my alley. When all is said and done, I’ll have a case of what’s looking to be some mighty fine juice. I might just show up in The City this weekend to assist the team with blending and tasting the wine, in whichever order is appropriate.

CrushNet is the networking side of CrushPad, where budding winemakers can message each other and remotely monitor the progress of their grape concoctions. I punched up the CrushNet website this morning to see that I’m being displayed on the home page as the Featured CrushNet User. And I’m feeling kinda juicy about it.

Wine Sherpa 

~winehiker

Fantastic Friday links!

Friday, January 12th, 2007

Top Ten California Wines of 2006

Thursday, January 11th, 2007

The Best in 2006 California Wines! 

It’s simple: taste a lot of California wine. Then taste a lot more. Then try to make sense out of all of that palate-pillaging panoply and proclaim 10 provocative plums that deserve special recognition.

Suddenly not so simple. But that’s just what Steve Pitcher at Wine News has done. I’ve excerpted below from Steve’s list; prices are furnished by Steve and are per 750ml bottle. For more details about each, please see Steve’s California’s Best of 2006 on Wine News.

  • Cabernet of the Year:  Shafer, 2002 Hillside Select, Stags Leap District - $190
  • Red Blend of the Year: Joseph Phelps, 2003 Insignia, 30th Anniversary, Napa Valley - $165
  • Merlot of the Year: Beringer, 2002 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain - $75
  • Pinot Noir of the Year: Merry Edwards, 2003 Klopp Ranch, Russian River Valley - $48
  • Syrah of the Year: Shafer, 2003 Relentless, Napa Valley - $63
  • Zinfandel of the Year: Rancho Zabaco, 2004 Toreador, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley - $50
  • Chardonnay of the Year: Grgich Hills, 2004 Estate Grown, Napa Valley - $38
  • Sauvignon Blanc of the Year: Cliff Lede, 2005 Napa Valley - $20

You may have noticed that there are only 8 wines in the above list. Though Mssr. Pitcher lists a number of Rhône Blends, he apparently neglected to mention the Top Rhone Blend of 2006! But that would still only add up to 9 wines. So that’s why I’m grabbing two of the Double Gold Best of Class from the 2006 SF Chronicle Wine Competition results listed on winejudging.com; they’re also the two most affordable wines on our top ten list:

  • Rhone Blend of the Year: Murphy Vineyards, 2004 Sierra Foothill Red - $17
  • White Dessert Wine of the Year: Navarro Vineyards 2004 White Riesling, Anderson Valley - $16

There. Something for everybody. All you gotta do now is shop, sip, and sigh contentedly. Simple!

~winehiker

Thoroughly Thursday Links!

Thursday, January 11th, 2007

Wine Review: 2005 Segue Russian River Pinot Noir

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

15 Winehiker Points*

The 2005 Segue Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley.

If you enjoy cultural pursuits and a good book or newspaper, you may have discovered the talents of author, playwright, Hollywood screenwriter, and San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Stephen Yafa. If you’ve been keeping up with the explosive growth of wine blogs this past year, you could probably develop the conclusion that wine writers are dime a dozen. You wouldn’t be wrong, particularly. But Mr. Yafa has been writing about wine far longer than most web logs have been around.

Yet with a lot of extraordinary work behind him, Yafa’s creative spirit had urged him to try something new, to segue his career into the next big thing. And what better pursuit to transition into than something you know about, something you love? Unlike the greater majority of wine scribes who haven’t gone beyond merely thinking about it, Yafa, who lives in California’s Marin County north of the Golden Gate, jumped full tilt boogie into winemaking.

I’ve got to hand it to him. After all, when you’re successful in a career that has spanned some longevity, you could easily choose to rest on your laurels and live off the royalties. You might also die early.

Mr. Yafa chose instead to realize his dream with the building of a new Mill Valley winery, Segue Cellars. To create his first wine, he sought the advice of local winemaker Greg La Follette, whose winemaking techniques have earned rave reviews with the likes of Burgundian-style wines from Flowers, Tandem, and DeLoach wineries, all fine makers of Russian River Pinots.

The Segue Russian River Pinot Noir, vintage 2005, is Steve Yafa’s first vinicultural creation.

A blend sourced from three Russian River Valley vineyards - VanderKamp, Sangiacomo, and Balletto – the 2005 Segue Pinot was punched down by Mr. Yafa himself and aged for 11 months in 50% new French Hermitage oak and 50% neutral French oak. It shows a bright cherry color and a moderate cherry nose upon opening, with slight vanilla undertones. It’s clear, though, by its highly citric qualities, that this unfiltered, unfined wine is young, complex, and in need of decanting to dispel the tartness and pull its disparate components together.

Fast forward: I wait 90 minutes for the duck to breathe off the vapors, tighten the flavors, resolve the acids. But this Pinot remains unresolved.

A peppery strawberry jam taste is present, with medium texture and moderately long finish, but this Pinot is still bitter and acidic, and these attributes distort the wine’s overall flavor profile. I cannot drink it without cheese and bread. After 48 hours, the tannins and acids ultimately soften for appreciable solo drinking.

Does the Segue 2005 need more time to mature? I hope to shout. But Pinot, already a finicky grape to grow, is even tougher to produce wine from. And so I wonder why Steve stacked the odds against himself from the beginning. A desire for challenge? A classic love of Pinot Noir? A twisted masochism normally attributed to winemakers from Calaveras County?

All three, perhaps?

Even the most skilled winemakers, with the latest knowledge, technology, and sourcing at their disposal, cannot ensure alchemy on the first go-round. The best – those winemakers who continue to source their grapes wisely, focus on the fundamentals, consult proper assistance when needed, and most importantly, keep on keepin’ on – will succeed.

And so I encourage Stephen Yafa to continue pursuing his dream.

$42 per bottle, 2-bottle minimum; 50 cases produced.
Disclosure: I received this wine as a press sample.

~winehiker

*Rated on the 20-point Davis scale using my Wine Scoring Sheet.

Wild n’ woolly Wednesday links

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

The AWBA: more coverage than Disney

Tuesday, January 9th, 2007

I got a chuckle this morning reading Tom Wark’s latest post at Fermentation. Having published a BusinessWire press release yesterday about the American Wine Blog Awards that he is hosting, Tom saw that his announcement had placed third-most in the number of hits for the day. Apparently the American Wine Blog Awards has more pull than the CEO of Disney delivering the keynote address at the Consumer Electronics Show.

Says something about our desire to read about wine!

Have you nominated your favorite wine blogger for an award yet? If you’re reading this blog, then you are eligible to make a nomination, and you can nominate any wine blogger you choose. There are seven categories to choose from and you still have time; the nominations window closes on Thursday, January 18th.

Thanks!

~winehiker