Sunday was only four days ago, but already it seems just so last month. Wherever did my July go? And yet, as if to celebrate the joys July had brought, I attended a barbecue and tasting on the back patio of my friend Sandy’s house in downtown San Jose last Sunday, an event she billed as Cabernet in July.
There were a number of reasons for attending: the prospect of grilled and home-made foods, friends that I hadn’t seen in a while, a sultry summer afternoon, and a selection of delectable quaffers from Sandy’s 1400-bottle cellar. Indeed, I had seen Sandy’s list of prospects for the tasting, and I expected a healthy dose of promise despite the potential for warm weather. Certainly drinking warm red Cabernet on a July afternoon outdoors can seem a dubious, palate-wilting prospect, but a healthy dose of shade and a welcome breeze kept us cool enough to enjoy the age and power of Sandy’s selections.
Meanwhile, I had expected to be volunteered at the BBQ, so I came equipped with my grilling tools and apron. (Apparently word of my culinary endeavors has made the rounds.) But between tasting wines and working a grill loaded with eggplant, leeks, lamb kabobs, and duck breast, I chanced to also write a few tasting notes. As a side note, Sandy opened all her wines approximately eight hours prior to our tasting.
1986 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 (South Australia)
Brick color, big oak, a little scattered on the palate, dill aroma and flavor suggesting that at 21 years, this wine had already gone over to the dark side.
1996 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 (South Australia)
Medium garnet color, outstanding aromas of cedar, cola, tobacco, cassis, and a little vanilla. Seemed quite Syrah-like. Moderate acidity, great structure and power, a very likable libation. We enjoyed it with Valerie’s home-made Boeuf Bourguignon; the combination was a gonzo hit.
1996 Moss Wood, Margaret River (Southwest Australia)
Dark ruby, brick color on rim, rather port-like characteristics of strong berry and plum flavors, alcohol, oak, and that hint of dill that suggests overaging. Good balance, however, and a finish that made it attractive to many in the group. I enjoyed this wine with a second helping of that delicious Boeuf.
1987 Carmenet, Sonoma Valley
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc characterized by solid tannins and pleasing cherry, tobacco, and coffee aromas. Cedar, herbs, a hint of spice and a continuity of tobacco round out the palate. A group favorite and the first bottle to be drained, as I recall.
1996 Silver Oak, Alexander Valley
Dark, inviting ruby color. Smooth, silky, and delicious with a sublime nose of mocha, blackberry, cherry, and berries, fine balance, and a satisfying finish. Best Silver Oak I’ve had, considering most have been way too oaky for my taste; it’s that strong new American oak that sometimes has me favoring something else. But eight hours’ breathing obviously helped this wine immensely.
1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia
Another smooth and silky wine, this blend offers that berry/cherry/plum/smoky combo that I adore. Nicely balanced in oak, and a sweetness and depth that I find profound. Dark color, soft tannins, a great, complex nose that stood up well to the grilled duck. Tannins are full and round, and the finish is quite elegant. I’ve always found that Insignia maintains a good impression for me, come to think of it.
1994 Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
A Rhone/Bordeaux blend that some liked and others didn’t. Light garnet color, gold toward rim. Barnyard, earth, and major funk on the nose, but shows vanilla and spice. On the palate there are sweet and somewhat savory tobacco notes, plus a finish that resembes a Tawny port. I found myself enjoying the distinction in this, my first Bekaa Valley vino, but realize that if I am desiring a Bordeaux or Rhone blend, this one ain’t it.
1986 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien
Violet color, well-aged, still slightly tannic, but lovely cedar, smoke, spice, cassis and blackberry flavors with a hint of earth. Smooth and mellow, long, crisp and elegant - it’s class in a glass. The structure, flavor, and length in this wine is amazing despite its 21 years.
1989 Chateau Montrose, St. Estephe
This wine has everything: cherry, blackberry, earth and only moderate barnyard on the nose, the fruit intensely extended on the palate along with a lovely mineral essence. Nicely rounded tannins, a soft voluptuous body and a quintessential finish yields a powerful and beautiful wine. It was so superb that I just had to try a little more of that Boeuf with this one, as if Valerie had used this wine to concoct the dish.
1989 Chateau de Pez
Lots of tar, minerals, berry fruits and spice, coupled with a slightly-beyond-balanced acidity that made for an interesting wine for me despite the beginnings of a flagging palate. An underlying current of chocolate made for a nice pairing with a triple-layered chocolate mousse. Oh, yum.
1977 Taylor Fladgate
Briar and blood, hot and spicy, lots of sediment. Coffee, currant, and ripe berry fruit flavors, opulent mouthfeel, such a welcome wake-up for my palate. Great balance and an incredibly rich layered finish. Oh my! This was gracious goodness.
1985 Dow
A ruby port with tawny edges. Rich, concentrated fruit flavors, nose of toffee and Christmas spices. A little bit too hot after the Taylor Fladgate, but would please many on a cooler night.
Time sure does fly when you’re having wine. In truth, Sandy’s soiree offered a terrific and tantalizing lineup that delivered on its promise! In retrospect, I found our collective food pairing and Sandy’s tasting order a superb call.
~winehiker
